Milk, he said, is a perfect source of nutrition, a superfood that is actually worthy of the label. At our first meeting, he spent half an hour monologuing on the subject, bouncing on an exercise ball and kneading a tattered shred of bubble wrap as he spoke. It is led by a chemist named Bruce German, and if there were a world title in extolling the virtues of milk he would surely hold it. The Foods for Health Institute, at the University of California, Davis, has the appearance of a Tuscan villa, its terra-cotta-walled buildings overlooking a large vineyard and a garden that bursts with summer vegetables. This is an edited excerpt from “ I Contain Multitudes: The Microbes Within Us and a Grander View of Life ,” which will be published on August 9th by Ecco, an imprint of HarperCollins Publishers.
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